By Benjamin Lyngdoh
A bistro is a traditional, indigenous eatery which serves meals in quick time. It is a small and simple space offering delicious food without the qualities of fine dining. The meals are reasonably priced and as result it has a wide consumer base ranging from the poor to the rich. In the Khasi context, a bistro is basically what is known as ‘Dukan jadoh’ or ‘Dukan ja bad sha’. A Khasi bistro reflects the indigenous food habits of the local population. It also highlights the richness of the local cuisines mixed with a representation of Khasi culture. Food habits are an integral part of culture and hence the significance of a Khasi bistro. In most cases, it is found that every bistro has its own signature item. Some are known for the delicious jadoh (a preparation of rice with meat), some for the way of preparing doh khleh (a specialised meat preparation), and some for the uniqueness of the syrwa (stew), etc.
For a Meghalayan it is normally just a place to eat, but for people from other parts of India and the globe, it is a place that can showcase the richness of Khasi culture. These features point to the value of a Khasi bistro. However, a Khasi bistro is one of the most neglected of small business enterprises. Everyone turns a blind eye to it. There is no policy from the state government concerning its nurturing, visibility and growth. Even the average Meghalayan does not care much about its operations. Is this what a Khasi bistro should be about?
The history and evolution of bistros can be traced to 19th century France (particularly Paris). They became popular during and after the Napoleonic wars of the early 19th century. The bistros also had a so called ‘golden period’ which began in the early 20th century till the start of the First World War in 1914. Although the origins of a bistro in terms of language/etymology is claimed to have a Russian connection, but, this is mostly debated and discarded by many linguists. Nonetheless, it is noteworthy that bistros as an economic sector did contribute a lot to the promotion and marketing of French culture in culinary arts and ultimately to fine dining.
According to social media posts, the oldest Dukan jadoh in Khasi Hills is the one known as ‘Dukan Pyrbot’ at Iewduh, Shillong which was established in the 1890’s. There is no research-based literature on the subject-matter. Today, such bistros are present in our localities and market places aplenty. The majority are run by women with limited economic means and with lower levels of educational qualification. That being the case, it would be fair to say that there are many Khasi bistros which have effectively contributed towards the education of the children and providing a better economic wellbeing to the household. Further, if we think in terms of a healthy eating habit, a Khasi bistro is the place to go to. Meals are fulfilling and nutritious. Hence, it would be good to have a survey on the number and nature of bistros not only in Khasi Hills but entire Meghalaya. This would then serve as a database for policy-making for the state government on their operations, visibility, and integration with the larger tourism sector in terms of culture showcasing and economic returns.
Despite the potential of a Khasi bistro, the challenges are many. The most common one is ‘cleanliness and tidiness’. Many bistros struggle on this aspect. Some of the reasons for this are the high frequency of consumers eating which then reduces the opportunity towards repeated cleaning. Others can be the capacity to employ only a limited number of staff, unskilled/semi-skilled employees, etc. It is to be noted that delicious food when combined with cleanliness and tidiness makes a Khasi bistro an unbeatable business. At a time where the consumers are health conscious, cleanliness is the leading factor in the picking of a bistro. In many bistros the internal layout can be an eyesore. In some cases, the dish washing space is clearly visible to the consumers seated at the tables. It is sort of an awkward situation and if not well maintained and clean, it becomes a problem.
The underlying reason for the challenges is the economics of bistros. The majority do not have the financial capacity to think beyond offering meals. Aspects like operational efficiency and service quality are a non-issue for the proprietors. This calls for a bistro-specific financial policy combined with training on operations. As an option of not depending on the state government for everything, a public-private partnership (PPP) model can be looked at. Private individuals/firms who have the drive to improve the quality and functioning of bistros can finance. This finance works under a profit sharing structure of (say) 10%. This means 10% of the annual profits will be shared with the private financier till the time the original financial help given to the bistro is returned back to the private financier. The government acts as a guarantor whereby if the bistro fails to honour the arrangement, it shall redeem the private financier. This model can work for other small businesses too. The only requirement here is ‘trust’ and a policy on the part of the state government on its standard operating procedure.
If the challenges on cleanliness, aesthetics, service delivery, communication skills (working knowledge of Hindi and English language) can be mitigated, then it can fairly be argued that the clientele of a Khasi bistro will increase manifold. As responsible consumers one must make some time to discuss with the bistros on such issues. Interactions and discussions with the bistro owners can help increase awareness, generate ideas and motivate them to improve performance. The youth who are trained in entrepreneurship can take this entire experience of a Khasi bistro to the next level. As trained personnel, it can be expected of them to position bistros as one of the beacons of Khasi culture. This way they can compete with the other eateries serving Indian, Chinese, Continental, etc cuisines.
Just think of the popularity of Chinese cuisine in Shillong. Chow and momo has become a household name. So much so that many people prefer them over jadoh and jastem. Even tourist who visit the tourist attractions opt for other cuisines rather than Khasi cuisines. If a Chinese menu can capture the imagination of the local population, why not the Khasi bistro. The key is how the bistros position themselves in the minds of the local consumers and the tourists. Bistros need to overcome the challenges, be more attractive, improve on aesthetics, and work on a financial model of professionalism. Also, have an integrated marketing strategy whereby the bistros tie up with the travel agencies/tour operators so that the Khasi bistros become a part and parcel of the tourist travel itinerary.
(The views are those of the writer. He can be reached at benjamin@nehu.ac.in)
